European Fashion Heritage Association

Journal Runway Archive

Runway Archive: Christian Dior Couture, 1998

1990scoutureFrench fashionrunway

A look from the maison’s couture spring/summer 1998 collection

In the picture taken by photographer Etienne Tordoir, a model dressed in all-silver is going down the stairs of the Opera Garnier, where the Christian Dior couture spring/summer 1998 show was staged. The look was designed by John Galliano – then creative director of the Maison – and is composed by a multilayered dress with an asymmetric cut; it is made of two different ligh fabrics, both in silver, and an armour sleeve in metal. On her head, the model is wearing an headpiece resembling a metallic crown with long bejewelled chains.

Featuring a lavish succession of Art Noveau silhouttes in richly brocade and velvet fabrics, and sumptuous ornaments and trims, the collection of which this look is part of was inspired by the Marchesa Casati, the eccentric Italian heiress and patroness of the arts, who became an icon of the first half of Twentieth century. During the show, the stairs of the Opera Garnier welcomed models in overwhelming clothes that looked like they were coming to attend a masked ball. Drawing from the ecletic figure and wardrobe of the Marchesa, the collection featured 1920s inspired coats and dresses, but also wide 19th century gowns. The whole show – a real event – ended with a shower of pastel coloured confetti cut in the shape of butterflies.