European Fashion Heritage Association

Journal Runway Archive

Veronique Branquinho S/S 2003


Recalling the collection through a memory of its runway show

Veronique Branquinho’s SS 2003 collection developed from a reflection on the contrast between light-shadow, attraction-repulsion, the feeling of transitoriness and duality.

To visualise these ideas, Branquinho conceived a show that could explain the imaginary behind the collection. In the show, each model is followed by her shadow. They appear from behind a black transparent screen on which their shadows are reflected. A softly spoken “he loves me, he loves me not” accompanies the models while they walk slowly. The daisy on the invitation with a “he loves me, he loves me not” recalls the image of a women drawing petals of a flower.

The first girl of each pair, stands for light, and is therefore totally dressed in white; her shadow is dressed identically but in black.
Flowers are used in several ways and applications: a net top and skirt with an application of a poppy. This poppy is also embroidered on sweaters with low cutbacks. A black dandelion is printed on a long white skirt.

Skirts are made in light fabrics; they are fluid and sometimes asymmetrical or put together as a spiral. Different flower prints or different shades of one colour are used together in the same style.
Black & white silhouettes were presented with coral shell accessories: belts, a corsage. Jumpsuits and dressed sometimes have beaded shoulder straps.
Straps are a detail which is central in this collection: either on tops, on the side of a sleeveless jacket, criss-cross as a belt on the pants, or in the waist of skirts, woven on the back of tops.

In the second part of the show are present subtle variations of lilac, rose and purple combined with cognac and brown colours. Silhouettes in tones of brown are combined with a low turquoise glitter pump.

Important is the mohair knitwear in a delicate dégradé combination of lilac colours. A new form of a fit jacket, sleeveless and with a shorter back is cut in a way that shows a movement. This jacket and the leather jackets is combined with a delicate mousseline flower print dress or fluid skirts.
The models wear opaque white stalking or jersey leggings under all skirts and pants.

The shoes combine elegance with a robust, hard finishing: high heeled shoes and sandals with fine leather straps have metal rivets all around the sole.

(all the images and the description are courtesy of MoMu – ModeMuseum Provincie Antwerpen, all rights reserved)