European Fashion Heritage Association

Journal Runway Archive

Runway Archive: dress by Olivier Theyskens

2000scontemporary fashionrunway

A look from the designer’s Spring/summer 2001 collection

In the picture, photographer Etienne Tordoir captured one of the looks designed by Olivier Theyskens for his s/s 2001 collection.

The look consists of a yellow, sleeveless bomber jacket and a white skirt. The hooded jacket is long to the waist and its fit is tight. It is quilted and with a central button flap. The full, wide skirt is worn over a crinoline. Its hem is folded and sustained by threads that pass through reinforced holes place on the hem at regular distance. A thread gathering at the waist of the model to lift up the skirt, showing laced pumps worn at the model’s feet.

Fashion designer Olivier Theyskens, who is going to be the subject of a major retrospective that inaugurates at MoMu – Fashion Museum of Antwerp on the 12th October 2017, first gained international recognition in 1998 when pop star Madonna wore one of his design – a long gown in yellow silk satin – for the Academy Awards. Theyskens, who attended the École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Visuels de la Cambre, had dropped out only one year earlier to establish his own label, whose first collection, that featured a gloomy take on the 18th century French costume, was shown in 1998 in Paris. Since then, the designer has given his imprint on different lines, from his own brand Olivier Theyskens and Theyskens Theory to the haute couture line of Rochas, and Nina Ricci. His universe will be shown at MoMu not only through his designs, but also through the pictures, film and drawings that document the complexity of his visual world.