On October 24, 2024, we had our EFHA workshop on “3D Digitisation Practices in Fashion Heritage.” Organised in collaboration with the Centro di Ricerca Gianfranco Ferré and the Missoni Archive, this intensive gathering offered a deep dive into the transformative potential of 3D technology for preserving and sharing fashion heritage. Featuring leading voices in fashion archives, museums, and digital innovation, the workshop highlighted methodologies, case studies, and emerging technologies that are shaping the field of cultural heritage. 

Federica Vacca from the Centro di Ricerca Gianfranco Ferré opened the workshop by framing the pressing need for innovation in heritage preservation. As fashion is inherently ephemeral, with fabric and form vulnerable to the passage of time, they emphasised how 3D digitization serves not just as a documentation tool but as a conduit for future cultural engagement. By digitising complex garments, fashion heritage can be preserved, explored, and even reinterpreted across generations and geographies.

Federica Vacca, alongside Angelica Vandi and Greta Rizzi, delved into the sophisticated 3D digitization practices at the Gianfranco Ferré Archive. Known for his architectural approach to fashion, Ferré’s work is an ideal candidate for 3D digitization, as it challenges technology to capture intricate details—such as fabric structure, volume, and movement—that define his designs. Their digitization efforts have enabled Ferré’s masterpieces to transcend physical limitations, providing immersive access to his legacy. This process also involves resolving technical challenges specific to fabric dynamics, ensuring that the digital replicas maintain the tactile and visual fidelity of the originals.

Debra Knoop from Modemuze introduced a systematic approach to digitization with her “Flowchart for 3D Digitisation.” The flowchart serves as a strategic framework, helping institutions outline steps from project initiation through to data management. This model is especially valuable for smaller archives with limited resources, allowing them to navigate the complexities of digitization efficiently and rigorously. Knoop’s approach underscores the importance of structured workflows in enabling fashion archives to meet the high demands of 3D fidelity and data longevity.

Suzanne Mulder from Centraal Museum Utrecht presented the 5DCulture initiative, a project that pushes the boundaries of conventional 3D digitization by integrating temporal and sensory dimensions. This innovative approach allows viewers to engage with digital heritage artefacts through narrative-rich experiences, making the cultural and historical dimensions of each piece more palpable. By blending digital replicas with storytelling, the 5DCulture project redefines how audiences experience fashion heritage, enabling a multi-sensory journey that deepens cultural understanding.

Dieter Suls of MoMu and Daniele Scarante from d_archive shared a compelling case study on reconstructing 2D garment patterns into highly accurate 3D models. Their work demonstrates the potential to digitally resurrect garments that are otherwise inaccessible, allowing for a comprehensive exploration of historical craftsmanship. This practice not only preserves but also revitalises heritage, offering designers, historians, and the public access to garment construction details that might otherwise be lost. By reconstructing these items in three dimensions, the team brings fashion history into a new, interactive sphere.

In a thought-provoking session titled “Narratives at the Core,” Dylan Eno and Finn van Tol underscored the importance of storytelling as an intrinsic component of digitization. Rather than viewing 3D digitization as a mere technical process, they argued for a holistic approach that prioritises narrative authenticity. According to Eno, the goal is not just to preserve the garment’s form but to embed its cultural and historical context within the digital representation. Their perspective advocates for an ethical and interpretive approach to digital preservation, which not only maintains the artefact’s physical integrity but also its cultural resonance.

The day culminated with an exclusive tour of the Gianfranco Ferré Archive, offering participants an intimate look at Ferré’s design oeuvre and allowing them to see first-hand the physical garments that inspire these digital innovations. The evening continued at Triennale Milano for the opening of Museo del Design Italiano: Forme mobili, an exhibition that also features fashion in defining the key concept of industrial design.

The second day of the EFHA “3D Digitisation Practices in Fashion Heritage” workshop took attendees into the heart of Italian fashion history, offering a rare view of the Missoni Archive and an immersive exploration of the Missoni brand’s dedication to preserving and evolving its heritage. Through a blend of archival insights, innovative technology, and hands-on engagement with textile artistry, the day unfolded as an intimate journey into both the legacy and forward-thinking vision of Missoni.

The day began with an introduction by Luca Missoni, who eloquently conveyed the history and artistic ethos of his family’s brand. Guiding attendees through the story of Missoni, Luca illustrated the passion for colour, pattern, and craftsmanship that defines the brand’s iconic aesthetic. His presentation underscored how Missoni has balanced tradition with innovation, adapting to contemporary trends while remaining firmly rooted in its artisanal origins. This family perspective provided a profound sense of continuity and care, setting the tone for a day devoted to examining the brand’s preservation efforts.

Following Luca’s remarks, attendees learned about Missoni’s efforts to merge heritage with cutting-edge technology. The presentation showcased examples of virtual mirrors that enable virtual try-ons and other digitization initiatives aimed at enhancing audience engagement. These virtual mirrors are part of Missoni’s approach to offering immersive, contemporary experiences of its designs, ensuring that the brand’s historical pieces can be “worn” and appreciated by modern audiences in a dynamic and interactive way. This blend of heritage and technology exemplifies how Missoni is expanding access to its storied designs, bridging past and present in ways that feel both personal and progressive.

The morning continued with an exclusive tour of the Missoni Archive, a carefully curated collection that reflects the brand’s journey from its origins to its current global presence. The archive provides a rich tapestry of Missoni’s artistry, filled with garments, textiles, and patterns that capture the brand’s signature approach to colour and form. Each piece in the archive tells a story of craftsmanship and creativity, offering a living record of the brand’s continuous evolution. The tour provided an intimate look at Missoni’s design process, revealing the complexity and precision behind each garment’s conception and production.

After the archive tour, attendees had the privilege of visiting the Missoni Factory in Sumirago, where they witnessed the brand’s textile machines in action. Observing the production processes and speaking with skilled artisans allowed attendees to experience the dedication and expertise that go into each Missoni textile. The rhythmic operation of the machines and the vibrant hues of the yarns brought Missoni’s creative process to life, illuminating the brand’s commitment to quality and innovation. This factory visit offered an authentic glimpse into the painstaking work behind the seamless blending of art and craft in every Missoni piece.

In the afternoon, participants travelled to Museo MA*GA in Gallarate for a workshop on hand-weaving, a hallmark of the Missoni aesthetic. Held in the Sala degli Arazzi—a space intimately connected with Missoni’s retrospective in 2015—the workshop allowed attendees to weave using Missoni’s signature vibrant threads. The hands-on experience revealed the nuanced techniques that define Missoni’s textiles, inviting participants to explore colour combinations and patterns that echo the brand’s iconic style. The looms workshop underscored the importance of tactile, artisanal knowledge within the Missoni design language, fostering a deeper appreciation for the intersection of heritage and innovation. The day concluded with a visit to Museo MA*GA, where participants toured the museum’s collection.

The two days provided insights and the chance to engage together in conversations and activities benefitting the network. Digital craftsmanship is redefining how fashion heritage is preserved and experienced, blending advanced technologies with the traditional artistry of garment-making. By integrating tools like 3D modelling, augmented reality, and virtual try-ons, archives can capture the intricate details and textures of historical pieces in ways that reach beyond physical preservation. This convergence of old and new methods not only safeguards the legacy of fashion but also revitalises it, allowing contemporary audiences to interact with the past through digital innovation. As fashion heritage enters the digital age, bridging these technologies is essential to keep its stories vibrant and accessible for future generations.