European Fashion Heritage Association

Journal Runway Archive

Runway Archive: Vivienne Westwood, 1991

1990scontemporary fashionhistoricismpittirevivalismrunway

A look from the menswear spring/summer 1991 collection

The picture portrays a male model wearing a white shirt, probably in linen, forming a big bow around the neck, and a suit, made of tailcoat, waistcoat and trousers in grey lightweight fabric. The waistcoat and the tailcoat present a heavy golden embroidery on the front, representing some floral motifs that go around the edges of both items. The outfit is part of Vivienne Westwood S/S 1991 collection, which was presented during Pitti Uomo 38 in Florence in 1990.

English designer Vivienne Westwood always looked at the past and, more precisely, at past traditions and cultural and artistic artifacts, in order to ground her collections into a well-thought scenario. The collection this outfit belongs to was called ‘Cut and Slash:’ it featured different fabrics, such as satin, cotton and denim, all of them slashed and mixed together. The inspiration for the collection was the mania, which emerged in the sixteenth century but lasted at least two centuries, for cutting and pricking fabrics. This collection followed the A/W 1990-91, which was called ‘Portrait’ and was inspired by oil paintings, proposing outfits that could literally to come out of historical paintings.